Back in August of 2024, I ended up picking up the new iPad Pro M4 13” version as an upgrade from my old A12Z chip 11” Pro version that I bought sometime around 2020. With the older iPad, I edited photos using Lightroom on the iPad, but also edited on my PC. Today, however, I am editing almost exclusively on the iPad Pro M4 with its increase in performance.
If you're looking for a clean, effective Lightroom editing workflow that balances automation and control, here’s a breakdown of my step-by-step process. This method works great whether you're new to editing or looking to optimize your mobile workflow.

📱 Why I Use Lightroom on the iPad

Lightroom on iPad offers an impressive mix of power and portability. With Apple Pencil support and seamless cloud syncing, it’s become my go-to for editing in the field, but mostly on the couch! I love the tactile editing experience and the ability to do serious post-processing without needing to fire up a desktop.

⚒ The Dreaded Culling Process

Ah yes, culling. I know that some professionals will use tools such as Adobe Bridge and Photo Mechanic, but I will just upload all the photos and then cull right from Lightroom itself. Under the Star menu, I will just swipe left and right with the left hand, and then swipe down with the right hand to “X” the photo if I do not like it. I like this method because I can cull from the comfort of my couch.

🛠️ My 10-Step Lightroom iPad Workflow

1. Choose the Camera Profile
I always start by selecting a camera profile that matches my creative intent. This step sets the tone for the rest of the edit by applying the base contrast and color rendering that’s truest to the camera I used. Since I am using the Canon R6, I use the Camera Matching profiles. Depending on the photo, normally I choose the Portrait, Landscape, or Faithful profiles.

2. Crop the Photo
Next, I crop to refine composition. I will usually crop with the idea of what I am going to do with the photo. For instance, if the photo is going to be used as an Instagram post, I will use the 1x1 or the 4x5 aspect ratio. I try not to crop too much, as it would degrade the quality of the photo itself.

3. Tap “Auto”
Yes, I hit the Auto button! It’s a great baseline. Lightroom's AI does a decent job of adjusting exposure, contrast, whites, and blacks based on its analysis. I don’t usually keep these settings, but they give me a good starting point. Note that I don’t use presets (like the ones offered by YouTubers). I like to keep the photo as natural as possible and I feel that presets take away from that.

4. Adjust Global Light Settings
Remember how I tap the Auto button in the edit menu? It is at this step where I will adjust the Exposure, Contrast, Highlights, Shadows, Whites, and Blacks. Remember to use the histogram so that your highlights aren’t blown out and that your blacks aren’t too dark to the point where you do not see any details in important areas.

5. Adjust Global Color Settings
Next, I tackle color - white balance, vibrance, saturation, and sometimes HSL for more targeted control. I aim to keep tones natural (when relevant) and skies or foliage balanced.

6. Apply an Adaptive Profile
I use Adaptive Presets (or profiles) to introduce a creative look. Whether it’s enhancing the subject or adding mood, these give me a stylistic boost that I can tweak later. These are especially useful for wildlife, portraits, or environmental scenes. In my workflow, I will normally choose Adaptive: Subject and then choose one of the options, such as Pop, Light, or Balance Contrast.

7. Adjust the Adaptive Masks
After applying the Adaptive Preset, I will then make minor adjustments by tapping the Masking menu item and adjusting the light, colour, etc, of the subject in that menu.

8. Heal, Clone, or Remove Distractions
Once the tone and color are where I want them, I clean up distractions using the healing and cloning tools. Dust spots, branches, among other things, I may or may not clone out. However, keep in mind that I try to not remove things as I want to keep the photo genuine. This is especially important if you plan on entering the photo into a contest, in that case, a lot of times cloning and healing is not allowed.

9. Apply Sharpening (If Needed)
I don’t always sharpen - but if an image needs a little punch or if it’s a wildlife shot with fine detail, I’ll dial in some light sharpening.

10. Apply Noise Reduction (If Needed)
For high-ISO shots, especially in low light, I’ll use Lightroom’s noise reduction. If the photo has a little too much noise, then I will head over to the PC and use the AI-powered denoise tool that is only available in the desktop version of Lightroom.

🧠 How My Workflow Compares to Professional Editors

Many professional photographers follow a similar structure. The big difference? Some may use custom desktop presets, reference views, or manual color grading. But with AI tools and adaptive presets on the iPad, I’m able to get 90% of the way there without sacrificing quality.
What’s most important is that this workflow is:

Consistent
Flexible
Mobile-friendly
And still leaves room for creativity

✅ Final Thoughts

Whether you’re editing photos from a Canon R6 or a smartphone, having a reliable workflow is key to turning your raw captures into stunning images. Lightroom on iPad lets you do just that - and with my workflow, you can stay fast and focused, while still getting professional-quality results.
If you're looking for a streamlined, mobile-first editing process that delivers, I highly recommend trying this out and customizing it to fit your own style.

Have questions about iPad editing or photography gear? Drop them in the comments or reach out - I'd love to chat!